How To Get Rid Of Mold In Terrarium? A Few Tips to Remember

Mold can grow in a terrarium for a variety of reasons. For example, why do you have mold in your soil, and how do you prevent it? These are the questions answered in this essay.

Mold (fungus) in a terrarium – reasons

There are just a few possible explanations for the appearance of mold in your terrarium.

Reasons for mold in a terrarium include:

• Overwatering
• Your terrarium is not getting adequate air circulation (closed or mostly closed terrariums)
• incorrect plant selection for an enclosure

Because terrariums lack drainage holes, water sprayed or poured on plants and soil must be used sparingly. Choosing the right plants, making sure the terrarium has adequate ventilation, and not overcrowding it are all important.

How to remove mold in a terrarium

As soon as you see mold or fungus, you need to take action. That’s because if it spreads, it will do much more harm.

Anywhere in the terrarium can get mold (fungus), which appears as white fluff or webbing. Many different kinds of fungi can appear as black or brilliant spots on plant leaves, for example.

Mealybugs, which can occur on plants, are not to be confused with mold. Compared to other white bugs, Mealybugs have a thicker appearance. To get rid of mealybugs on a plant, soak a cotton bud in an alcohol and gently dab it on the plant to get rid of them. Take off a large chunk of the plant and replace it with a healthy one.

It is necessary to gently remove all of the plants and accessories from a terrarium in order to eradicate the mold. Once you’ve disinfected the container with soap and hot water, it’s time to put it away for good. Any stones or other ornaments should be cleaned as well.

Replace the soil and remove any infected stems, leaves, or entire plants. Check the roots and remove any that are too lengthy or diseased.

When just one area of the terrarium has been damaged, you may not need to rebuild the entire terrarium. Only the diseased plant needs to be removed and replaced with a healthy one. In addition, if you want to save your plant, you can use a non-toxic fungicide.

Soak the damaged tissue in water/hydrogen peroxide and remove it if it is near dirt or moss. Do not water the plants for a few days after that.

Preventing mold or fungus in a terrarium

Tip #1: Make sure to have a drainage level in a terrarium

For the sake of your plants’ health, it is essential to have a drainage level built into your terrarium. There are no drainage holes in a terrarium, thus any surplus water must be drained away in the drainage layer. As a result, mold and other pests will not grow in the soil or on the plants.

To begin the process of draining your terrarium, you first need to prepare the container (wash and dry it to remove any residue). Fill the bottom with sand or rocks, and then you’re done! The drainage layer you use will depend on the overall design. Rocks and sand of various hues are at your disposal.

Once that’s done, install a separator on top of the drainage layer to keep the charcoal level apart from the drainage layer (to prevent seeping). There are a variety of ways to create dividers, such as coffee filters, cheese cloth, or gauze. Make sure the water can pass through the separator without being blocked.

A charcoal layer follows the divider. A terrarium’s unpleasant scent can be eliminated by using charcoal to absorb up any contaminants. Also, it helps to combat mold and other fungi. You’ll then need to place your potting soil and plants on top of the charcoal layer.

Tip #2: Don’t leave water on terrarium walls for too long

Avoid putting water drops or condensation on the sides of the terrarium or on the foliage of the plants for an extended period of time to keep mold at bay. Mold and fungus growth is common in soil and on plants when the humidity is consistently high.

An overwatered terrarium, especially one without adequate air circulation, may accumulate moisture. Fungus and mold develop as a result of an accumulation of water droplets on soil and plants.

If you have a closed terrarium, make sure to open the lid once a week for around 24 hours. If condensation forms too frequently, you can also wipe the interior of the glass.

Even plants that like moisture (such as moss) will rot if the humidity is too high in the terrarium. In general, closed terrarium plants will benefit from watering once a month or less.

Tip #3: Don’t mix plants with different care requirements

Even moss, a plant that thrives in moist conditions, will die if the terrarium’s humidity is too high. As a general rule, watering closed terrarium plants once a month or less is beneficial.

A high level of humidity in a terrarium can lead to the death of even the most water-loving plants, such as moss. Closed terrarium plants benefit from watering once a month or less in general.

They do not require soil at all, so they should be placed on dry filler in a terrarium to avoid mold and decay. It is recommended that you use dry fillers such as pumice, moss-preserved dry soil or crushed coral for tillandsias.

Succulents, air plants, and mosses can all coexist in the same container, but spraying the moss to keep it moist is a must. An open lid container is required if the plants will be planted together.

Keep succulents and air plants out of terrariums that are tightly sealed. If you want to grow a carnivorous plant, you’ll need a terrarium that’s both humid and warm.

Tip #4: Don’t water your terrarium plants too often

Don’t overwater your plants in the terrarium, but don’t overdo it either! In addition to mold and fungus in general, overwatering can also cause plant rot. Depending on the type of plant, different amounts of water will be required.

Succulents and air plants need to be watered around once a week on average, with summer watering being more frequent and winter watering being less frequent. Open terrarium plants also require more frequent watering than those in closed terrariums.

Closed bowls, apothecary jars, and similar containers should be cleaned or ventilated on a regular basis. Depending on the season and the temperature of your home, you should only water plants in jars with closed lids once every 1-2 months.

Tip #5: Prune plants that are overgrowing

If your plants have been in your terrarium for some time and are becoming overgrown, you should prune them. To put it another way, if the stems and leaves come into contact with the glass that is frequently wet, they will begin to mold and decay. Ensure that the leaves are not touching the glass.

It’s usually a good idea to use a larger container and plants that develop more slowly when creating a terrarium. Plants need room to grow and spread out, so don’t cram them too tightly together.

Tip #6: Replace the soil

When you plant your plants and moisten the soil, it may contain mold spores, resulting in mold growth. Soil may be to blame if you detect mold in all of your projects that have used the same soil.

For 30 minutes at 300 degrees Fahrenheit, you can bake your soil to eliminate any bacteria and spores. Sterilization of the soil will be achieved in this manner. You can also switch to a peat-based soilless mix instead of using the soil you currently have. Make sure to use a fast-draining soil like this for succulents.

Tip #7: Remove any dead leaves

Make sure to remove any shriveled leaves from your plants on a regular basis. As decomposing organic stuff feeds on fungus, so does this. Fungus will only spread if decomposing debris in the terrarium is not removed. Using a long grabber tool or tweezers like this, you can remove any fallen leaves or other debris.

When Terrariums Go Bad: 6 Tips for Troubleshooting (Mold? Yecch)

Even though they’re hailed as the ultimate low-maintenance houseplant setup, many new terrarium owners are surprised when things start going wrong after only a few months of ownership.

It’s possible that the glass is fogged up and covered in some sort of green gunk. Alternatively, the once-pristine foliage of a fern may be threatening to force the lid up and cover the other plants. There could be nothing but dark, rotten goo where once stood a succulent.

Even while there are many websites and publications dedicated to terrariums and the projects they inspire, it is rare to find information on how to troubleshoot issues or accept that even the most meticulously planted terrariums will require a refresher course once or twice a year. As botanist James Wong recently pointed out, a terrarium of at least 30 by 30 centimeters (about 12 by 12 inches) has a much better chance of creating a stable, long-term environment for plants than a smaller container. However, don’t expect your plants to appear precisely the same in a year if you keep them in a smaller glass container.

As you can see, these are the most prevalent issues and the best ways to fix them.

The Glass Is Constantly Misty

Even if the terrariums you see on Instagram always have perfectly clear glass, it is perfectly normal for the glass of a closed terrarium to mist up and clear on a daily basis. Try taking the lid off for a few hours or opening a vent for a few minutes to see if that helps clear the glass. For a short cure, use a soft towel to mop up the moisture. You may need to do this for a few days before things settle down. The plants inside the terrarium, which are accustomed to high humidity, may succumb to the dry air if they aren’t taken care of.

The Glass is Dirty

Even though they’re hailed as the ultimate low-maintenance houseplant setup, many new terrarium owners are surprised when things start going wrong after only a few months of ownership.

It’s possible that the glass is fogged up and covered in some sort of green gunk. Alternatively, the once-pristine foliage of a fern may be threatening to force the lid up and cover the other plants. There could be nothing but dark, rotten goo where once stood a succulent.

Even while there are many websites and publications dedicated to terrariums and the projects they inspire, it is rare to find information on how to troubleshoot issues or accept that even the most meticulously planted terrariums will require a refresher course once or twice a year. As botanist James Wong recently pointed out, a terrarium of at least 30 by 30 centimeters (about 12 by 12 inches) has a much better chance of creating a stable, long-term environment for plants than a smaller container. However, don’t expect your plants to appear precisely the same in a year if you keep them in a smaller glass container.

As you can see, these are the most prevalent issues and the best ways to fix them.

The Glass Is Constantly Misty

Even if the terrariums you see on Instagram always have perfectly clear glass, it is perfectly normal for the glass of a closed terrarium to mist up and clear on a daily basis. Try taking the lid off for a few hours or opening a vent for a few minutes to see if that helps clear the glass. For a short cure, use a soft towel to mop up the moisture. You may need to do this for a few days before things settle down. The plants inside the terrarium, which are accustomed to high humidity, may succumb to the dry air if they aren’t taken care of.

The Glass is Dirty

It’s a good indicator if your glass is green if you see algae growing on it. An aquarium scraper or even an old credit card can be used to clear algae from a large tank-style aquarium with flat edges. Paper towels or a clean rag work wonders on curved glass. Watering with tap water is the most common cause of white streaks; if possible, utilize rain or distilled water to address the problem. Using a towel moistened with lemon juice or vinegar, you may be able to get rid of the streaks (keep this well away from your plants). Use a damp towel soaked in rainwater or distilled water to finish the job. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble the terrarium, use vinegar to thoroughly clean the glass, then rinse and reassemble.

The Plants Are Overgrown

If the plants in your terrarium are happy, they will quickly fill out their designated space. Trim any leaves that touch the window or intrude on their neighbors’ property first. If this seems like too much work or the plants end up looking unkempt, it’s definitely time to move them to another location and replace them with something smaller and slower-growing, such a nerve plant (Fittonia), a Sonerila, a parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans), or a Cryptanthus.

The Plants Are Leaning to One Side

Your specimens may be attempting to develop toward the source of light. Turn your terrarium slightly every few days so that the plants all get the same exposure to light, and if they get leggy, move the terrarium to a brighter spot, still out of direct sunlight.

Succulents and Cacti Have Rotted Away

You may have noticed that your specimens are attempting to develop toward the source of light. The plants need equal light exposure, so rotate your terrarium every few days and transfer it to a brighter area, out of direct sunlight, if it becomes leggy.

More Help: Terrarium Workshops

Getting guidance from a professional is almost always beneficial. The following training sessions will take place soon:

• The Tinyjohn Workshop at London Terrariums costs £45 on January 7th.
• The next Sprout Home Terrariums Workshop in Brooklyn is scheduled on January 10; the cost is $75.
• The next Terrariums Workshop at Sprout Home in Chicago is scheduled for December 13 and costs $75.
• A Winter-Themed Succulent Gardens Terrarium Workshop will be held on December 7 in Rochester, NY; registration is $30 in advance.
• There will be a Terrarium Building Workshop at Pistils Nursery in Portland, Oregon, on December 19; the cost is $25.

FAQs

Q: What do I do if I see white fuzzy mold in my terrarium?

A: If your terrarium is kept in an area that is excessively warm, white fuzzy mold may form. As a result of the jar’s wet and warm atmosphere, mold growth is encouraged. Keep a close eye on your terrarium to see if there are any changes that need to be addressed. If you see any mold, act quickly before it takes over your home. To get rid of the mold on your ornaments and rocks, use a q-tip dipped in hydrogen peroxide. Remove any mold from the moss using a q-tip dipped in water. Use new q-tips whenever necessary (don’t “double dip” a moldy one because you’ll just spread the mold).

A unique substrate is used in all Doodle Bird terrariums to prevent mold spores from getting into the soil, which is a frequent place for mold to lurk. Prior to planting, the hardscape and decor are thoroughly cleaned. But don’t forget that spores are minuscule and can be found all around us. Adding beneficial organisms that feed on mold to a bioactive terrarium is strongly recommended (Doodle Bird brand terrariums already contain these organisms). Find out more about Terrarium Mold Removal.

A terrarium that has been overrun by mold. In addition to the green moss, there is also brown moss. Sadly, there is little that can be done to save this terrarium.

Q: A mushroom appeared in my terrarium overnight, what should I do?

A: You’re in luck! Microscopic mushroom spores, like mold spores, were probably hidden in the moss, just like mold. Because mushrooms do not harm your moss, they can be left alone—unless you don’t like their appearance. You can remove the dead parts of mushrooms using a q-tip or tweezers when they die because mushrooms live only a few days to a few weeks.

The terrarium below belonged to a customer, and it developed tall, beige mushrooms (the red topped ones are just decorations). Inquiring about whether or not she should be concerned, she contacted me. When I told her she looked great, she said how glad she was.

Q: I have bugs in my terrarium, how do I get rid of them?

Occasionally, insects will appear in terrariums after traveling through the soil on moss. It’s up to you whether or not you want to keep the bug as a pet or get rid of it. It is not uncommon for a tiny caterpiller, which is quite adept at camouflaging, to show up in the terrarium as an itty bitty moth. While it’s still a caterpiller, it will spin a web over a patch of moss and, for lack of a better term, leave behind a smattering of tan colored poops. Insect “droppings” are easy to remove with a damp q-tip, despite how unpleasant they may seem. Once the moth appears, simply scoop it up and let it to exit the house.

Small spiders and beetles, which don’t harm the moss and are likely to die off on their own, are also common hitchhikers, though they’re less prevalent. It’s possible to get rid of them, however, if you hire a professional “spider slayer.” Ideally, though, they should be left outside to continue their lives peacefully.

Gnats are also a nuisance. These aren’t harmful to moss, but they’re ugly anyway. When left alone, they will die in a week and can be removed with a paper towel. Pesticides can harm not only pests but also the moss in your terrarium; avoid using them at all. Pests will eventually die off if you wait it out.

Q: My moss is turning brown, is that normal?

A: No! Light and water conditions can vary the color of moss from dark green to light green, but brown or yellow/brown moss is dead. Furthermore, it quickly spreads to healthy moss, so remove any brown pieces you spot as soon as possible from the patch. It’s up to you whether you use tweezers, scissors, or your fingers to remove the hair. Just pull it out and throw it away. Rock/stones or fresh moss can be used to fill in any areas that have been left bare.

What you should keep in mind:

A little brown coloration can be seen on the moss’ undersides (the section that is hidden from view). Fortunately, this isn’t a cause for alarm.

In the reproductive stage of many mosses, long brownish stalks can be seen rising from the green portion of the plant. This is completely normal and does not mean that the plant is dying.

Q: There is a lot of condensation on the glass, am I watering too much?

In this case, A, it’s more likely that the terrarium’s temperature differs from that of its surrounding environment, which causes condensation to form. It will cause a thin layer of fog to form on the glass’s sides, but this is not harmful to the contents. If it concerns you, you can remove it with a paper towel if necessary, but I recommend leaving it alone. If, on the other hand, you notice large drops of water dripping down the inner walls, this could suggest an excess of moisture. Put the cover back on after wiping it clean.

Q: I moved my terrarium and now I think it’s dying, what should I do?

When it comes to moving your terrarium, I don’t recommend doing so. It is possible that a rapid shift in the environment could lead to the moss becoming brown or becoming infested with mold. To get the greatest results, place it in a well-lit, cool environment (about 70-74°F is ideal). That doesn’t mean, though, that you can’t move it. If, on the other hand, it’s flourishing, leave it alone and you’ll be able to enjoy your rich green moss for years to come.

You may be able to get it back to where it was before you moved it if you can. Remove any browned moss or mold by following the previous methods. Moving it to its original place isn’t always possible; if this is the case, attempt to find a new area that is similar to the one it thrived in before.